When Alessandro Michele was growing up in Rome in the 1970s, one of his favorite pastimes was to rummage through his mother’s closet and to run his hands over the rustling taffeta, glinting sequins, and other adornments of time past.

Citing a fascination with lists, the Italian designer revealed the myriad inspirations in each of the 48 unique ensembles.

For his debut collection at the French house, the designer left 100-page documents as show notes on every seat at the runway show.

Just a few days before Alessandro Michele’s inaugural Valentino couture show, the designer welcomed Vogue into his Paris atelier.